Ninh Binh and Tam Coc, in the karst countryside south of Hanoi, are often described as Halong Bay on land, and the comparison is fair even if the pace is entirely different. Small rowing boats thread through Tam Coc’s flooded rice fields beneath limestone cliffs, while nearby Hoa Lu holds the ancient temples of Vietnam’s tenth-century capital. Hire a bicycle for a morning and the whole area opens up at a pace no coach tour allows.
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